Porto Moniz, Seixal and the north coast
The classic day out crosses the Paul da Serra plateau to the north coast. In Porto Moniz the sea fills natural pools in black lava rock, set up for swimming with ladders and changing rooms.
East along the coast, Seixal has a black sand beach below green cliffs. Carry on to São Vicente, where you can walk through tunnels left by ancient lava flows, then come back over the Encumeada pass and down through Ribeira Brava, or return across the plateau.
The plateau and the laurel forest
Paul da Serra is Madeira’s high plateau, about 1,500 metres up, with wind turbines, grazing cows and views to both coasts. The viewpoint at Bica da Cana looks down over the mountains and, on many mornings, over a sea of cloud.
Fanal, on the northern edge of the plateau, is a meadow of ancient, twisted til trees, part of the laurel forest that UNESCO listed as World Heritage in 1999. It is at its most magical in fog. The walks at Rabaçal start from the same road: walks and levadas.
Cabo Girão, Câmara de Lobos and Funchal
Heading east on the fast road, stop at Cabo Girão, where a glass-floored platform hangs over a cliff about 580 metres above the sea. Câmara de Lobos, the fishing harbour Winston Churchill painted in 1950, is a few minutes further on.
In Funchal, walk the old town and the Mercado dos Lavradores market, ride the cable car up to Monte and come down in a wicker toboggan. Curral das Freiras, the Nuns’ Valley, is a short drive into the mountains behind the city.
Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo
Pico do Arieiro (1,818 m) is Madeira’s third highest peak and the one you can drive up. Come for sunrise above the clouds, or walk the high path towards Pico Ruivo (1,862 m), the highest; check first that the path is open. From Calheta it is the longest drive here, so set off early.
Rough driving times from Calheta town
| To | By car |
|---|---|
| Paul da Serra and Bica da Cana | about 30 min |
| Fanal | about 40 min |
| Porto Moniz | about 45 min |
| Seixal | about 50 min |
| São Vicente | about 45 min |
| Cabo Girão | about 35 min |
| Funchal | about 30–40 min |
| Curral das Freiras | about 1 h |
| Pico do Arieiro | about 1 h 15 min |
Approximate times without traffic. Mountain roads are slower in fog.
Car, jeep tour or bus
- Hire a carThe most flexible way to do these trips. Pick one up at the airport or in Funchal, for example through madeira-cars.pt. A car with some power helps on the mountain roads.
- Join a jeep tourHalf-day and full-day 4×4 tours with a local driver-guide follow the mountain tracks, often with pick-up in Calheta. A good choice if you would rather not drive the hairpins yourself.
- Take the busRodoeste buses link Calheta with Funchal, but services to the north coast and the mountains are few. Getting here and around.